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Pertronix Ignitor

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#16 kornfed2007

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Posted 09 March 2012 - 05:49 AM

Ah I do believe the Pertronix lined up with the shaft about that far off, Compared to where the points do now! LoL
Regulator was what I based the blame on first, I know volts was 14-14.5 before and after the regulator was replaced, but AMPS was spiking! over 150 (high compared to 45-61)

Oh one wire burned slap off the ignition, last november, had to be the ballast knowing now (thanks Roger) that it is only a insulated wire. I remember I was down around Jacksonville FL, for thanksgiving, (300 miles from Home) I went over a set of RR tracks and Sizzle, Zap, Spark and Smell of plastic POW! I was broke down! I knew it was behind the dash because it illuiminated my lap, to around the heater hoses near the wife. I tried crank back up, and it fired right off! Then Died when I released the key! I knew it was the switch, I found a bald charred wire behind the key switch. Still hours from my folks, in the middle of the night, I spliced in 2 foot of what I had (18g if I recall) and less than a hour later I had the dash back together and Me and the 7 month pregnant wife was back on the road! (5 months 10k miles before anymore problems)
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#17 Tom Snyder

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Posted 09 March 2012 - 06:08 PM

Ah I do believe the Pertronix lined up with the shaft about that far off, Compared to where the points do now!

Lined up with the ... shaft? Not following you there.
So it’s a 240 six? I believe you retarded the timing if you turned the distributer counter clockwise. But it doesn’t make sense. With points or electronic ignition the timing should be the same.
Like I said before, 1/4 turn is a huge change in timing. Way, way too much. Something was or is now very out of whack.

#18 kornfed2007

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Posted 10 March 2012 - 04:49 AM

Yeah I tried the .017 gap LoL and it was erratic, Idled so so, but nearly beat me to death when I pulled out on the road, Like a midget was in the engine bay kinking my fuel line then rolling, kicking, and laughing hehehe I knew your was a 302ci then, I grabbed the Haynes (supposedly) guide, said .027 gap! That must have been the 300 I6? Because it ran, but cut out bad under acceleration or on the slightest hill. I just went .022 and it seems consistent cold or warm, up hill or taking off.

Oh about the near quarter turn on the dizzy
The plate that the pertronix pickup sits on, is the same as the one points sit on. they are the same shape and orientation to the shaft, but the electric pickup is farther back on the plate near the rear cap hold down strap by the vacuum advance also farther (like 1/2") from the shaft toward the outside of the housing on the 240/300 I6, than the point of contact that hits the lobe on the shaft of the dizzy with points, which in my case was farther up, centered between the cap hold down straps, also the points are a lot closer to the shaft, well the contact with the lobes is, well under what the base of the rotor button protrudes

Ignition Conversion



It ran nearly the same either way, ignitor was alot smoother though in every aspect, but I havent set the dwell yet, just gapped them at the top of the lobe, after making sure #1 piston was 95-98% up, put the button and cap on, loosened dizzy hold down and bumped it (advance) till I could get Idle then more under load, backed off a nick when power stopped being gained and pinging began
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#19 Tom Snyder

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Posted 10 March 2012 - 09:23 PM

Didn’t realize that it was a six until later. The .017 gap is for a 302, I don’t know offhand what it is for a 240.

#20 kornfed2007

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Posted 15 March 2012 - 08:19 AM

Summit Racing Emailed me yesterday!
(shipped on 03/14/2012) - UPS 1-3 days - (PNX-1261 IGNITOR FORD 6 CYL)
Timing had nothing to do with it nor did my installation LoL ;) Ran great about 80-90 days! I didnt mention the Voltage regulator and replaced it that day.
(noticed my lights still have a slight flicker now and then)

I timed it with a vacuum tester, Off the manifold pressure bellow the Carter YF, While everything was plugged, but will take it to someone with a light before I put the new Electric Pickup on

I cleaned and re-tightened some grounds like Altenator, Engine, and Regulator
Everything's brighter, from reverse lights to interior and dash illumination, but still notice a slight flicker occasionally in headlamps, (BTW dimmer is shot! Brights only) I am going to have AutoZone test the Battery, Regulator, and Alternator again.

Might be grounds to headlamps I didn't get to? I am doing Relays soon anyway

I have so many different projects going on right now with Earl, This is my daily driver so I can't tear into anything except on days I can finish them LoL Have 5 kids and 2 Adults that depend on it, Everything from Work, Dr Appointments, School Meetings to getting Groceries or visiting loved ones

Thanks for the Info and Help guys!
Now I am onto the Brakes!
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#21 Tom Snyder

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Posted 15 March 2012 - 06:59 PM

..., but still notice a slight flicker occasionally in headlamps, ...

Flickering headlights is caused by the circuit breaker that’s built in to the headlight switch. You need to replace the switch. Once they start doing that they just keep getting worse & soon will be going out longer & longer ‘till you have no lights at all. The switch is about $15 - $20. Ford used the same switch for years on all their cars. If you reach up under the dash & put your hand on the switch you will feel that it is hot. If you only have brights it makes it worse so you better get a dimmer switch unless you can fix yours.
http://econolines.ip...?showtopic=3855
How to remove the headlight switch.
http://econolines.ip...indpost&p=30149
Might take 2 or 3 tries to get the shaft behind the knob in just the right place

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#22 kornfed2007

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Posted 16 March 2012 - 12:29 AM

I replaced the switch about 8 months back, (RockAuto actually)

I am sure its in the wiring, I can twist the light knob either way and the dash lights stay the same! As a matter of a fact I can pull the knob out both clicks turning my lights on, and the dash stays off! I can turn my key to ACC or RUN, still the lights stay off! Soon as the engine cranks and I release the key, The dash lights come on?

The red light below the speedo that indicates brights is working correctly? I know the prong in the bottom center of the connector (going by the photo you posted above) should control dash brightness (the one with the long brass lead to the spring) I need to make sure the previous owner didn't splice into the wire to the coil or something!!!!! But then I suppose the lights would come on with the key then? Field from alternator maybe? I wont know till a pull the dash Sunday.

After cleaning up the grounds and putting the voltage regulator on, I noticed more light, I actually got flashed because of my brights a few times! At first I figured they had got knocked out of adjustment some how, Not the case, Once the passer by wasn't blinding me, I went for the dims (via the faulty floor mounted switch) and POOF I was in total darkness! I stamped at it madly till I clicked it to brights again! Like it was stuck, but I was on a very curvy section called the dragon just crossed the North Carolina line! I just leave them on bright now till I get into this after the Brakes tomorrow

Oh I changed my switch because the lights especially on bright, but often on dim as well, Would flash on and off randomly.

I should have took a photo of the melted plastic and arced prongs! It was doing this long before I got the van, but the guy only had one light! Got a lot worse when I replaced the blown bulb, Maybe a because of more (Double) strain on the switch?

P.S.
Oh Tom, That switch was a pain in the @$$ too! Not just the pull rod reinsertion, I got the one you show pictured above. The picture doesn't show the metal piece you have to hold aligned, that was a bear! Then while keeping the two back pieces aligned and firmly pressed to the back of the dash with your left hand, You have to focus on the front bezel insert (with the little peg that goes in the groove to align the spacer block thing your holding around back of the dash LoL that your also trying to hold the switch tight against) while threading the ring in the front! Then when its screwed in snug, and your wiping the sweat from your brow, (100deg Georgia Summer) whilst shaking the writers cramp out of your thumb/palm.LoL

Just to realize its out of square by a micron of a cunt hair, The rod/knob is not going to line up properly, Hence depressing the switch instead of entering it and locking! After the third time of this, I finally taped the switch to the brace. Once they was mated together, I held it behind the dash unplugged, and from there it was a breeze

Pulled the tape from around it and plugged it up
Attached File  Headlamp switch.jpg   32.14K   13 downloads
you can see the notch's here on the sides that mate (face of switch to back of mount)
I ever have it to do again I am epoxy'n that brace to the switch face hahaha
but there's another small alignment pin and notch that mates through the dash to the round "LIGHTS" labeled bezel
Attached File  Headlight Knob.JPG   115.14K   13 downloads


I wonder if I have a CVR???? like I said earlier no gauges work except speedo, Maybe last owner cut into something in a attempt to power it up again and only ended up splicing in the dash lamps (Wich are dim)
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#23 Tom Snyder

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Posted 16 March 2012 - 04:47 AM

Hmm, ... It does sound like you might have some strange wiring issues there. Have you reached up in there & fondled the ‘new’ switch to see if it’s hot when the lites were blinkin’ out?

That switch was a pain in the @$$ too! Not just the pull rod reinsertion, I got the one you show pictured above. The picture doesn't show the metal piece you have to hold aligned, that was a bear!

I know what yer talkin’ ‘bout. I don’t remember having any problem with that spacer in all the ones I have changed in the past but this last one was pissin’ me off. Maybe I was just lucky & was using replacement switches that had that spacer spot welded to them. Probably a switch that I pulled out of a junk car somewhere. Like this original equipment C5, (1965), numbered Autolite one.

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I almost posted my permanent fix to that little problem. I think I tried tape the spacer on too but it did not hold or stay in place.
This way it can be used again if needed. Don’t have to wait for epoxy to dry. I don’t have any epoxy in any case.
Check it out. Right after the turn signal bucket fix. I like them self tapping screws.
http://econolines.ip...?showtopic=3639

I wonder if I have a CVR????

What do you mean by “CVR”?

#24 kornfed2007

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Posted 16 March 2012 - 11:40 AM

Yeah actually the first thing I did! After one switch chard under there, was reach under the dash and palm the box feeling for heat, Then checked the wire connection. I will start looking for the dash, ignition, voltage regulator, lights and alternator harness

on the CVR thing is for instrument panels that run on like 5v instead of 12v
I read somewhere they have mechanical and electrical types
''CVR'' or constant voltage regulator

if so maybe I will see about upgrading it or replacing with a
(Instrument Panel Regulator?)





never mind the little pics...........
I am trying to get them in my attachment folder to make a Signature

Attached Files


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#25 Tom Snyder

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Posted 17 March 2012 - 03:42 AM

...on the CVR thing is for instrument panels that run on like 5v instead of 12v I read somewhere they have mechanical and electrical types ''CVR'' or constant voltage regulator

That’s what I was thinking you meant, just couldn’t remember the right term for it. Yeah, you have one. 1968/‘69 &’70 have different gauge panels than ‘71 & up.
Here’s a couple threads....
http://econolines.ip...?showtopic=2225
http://econolines.ip...?showtopic=4175
I easily found those by searching for dash gauge regulator as outlined here.
http://econolines.ip...indpost&p=41831
I keep telling peeps to use that to search here.

#26 kornfed2007

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Posted 18 March 2012 - 03:14 AM

Great tip Tom!

Yeah I hadn't seen that before! I found all kinds of sweet info! Bookmarked stuff, was having a ball, That was......... until........................She came in! :(

BUSTED!!!! "Up all night looking at van stuff! AGAIN!" (not my words)

hey what could I say (nothing cause I froze)
Van porn addict, I guess

Thanks Tom "Sarcastically" :rolleyes: .....................and..................... Thanks Tom "Genuinely" ;)

I wonder if the F100/250 wiring loom can be used in these E-Series vans?
I bet shortening or extending may be the only hang up
only ask cause I will never find one for the van down here in Georgia
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#27 kornfed2007

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 05:15 PM

This is part of the Pertronix instructions that can be confusing. There is no "ballast resistor" on our vans. But there IS a resistor wire unless someone has taken it out of the original wiring. What a lot of people think of when they are looking for a "ballast resistor" is the ceramic block that you would see mounted to a firewall or something.
Look at the wires coming from your ignition switch. There is a small wire that is (I think) red with a gold stripe. Follow that wire down about a foot away from the switch and you'll see where it connects into two other wires. One is green with a red stripe,, and the other is a larger pink wire. On that pink wire it says (on the wire insulation) "resistor do not cut or splice".


What does the Green/Red stripe go too? thats the one that burnt all the way down the out side of the harness! I cant even tell what color it was, but now that you said that that's the only other one that it could have been as it came off the connector with the pink ballast wire

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the Red one going to it in the picture is not wire, its melted plastic! I jumped the blue one from switch to the pink connector (Ballast) around Thanksgiving

(fusible link?)

Thanks Roger
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#28 kornfed2007

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 05:44 PM

Unwrapped entire harness
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Spliced in all burnt wires and removed all botched rewired stuff (Previous owners)
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Redid the Wrap

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Put it all back

Look at this Instrument Panel before and after!
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I cant believe what I found behind the dash!
Tom you was right about some funny things going on from the problems I was having!
One wire and I should have it figured out!!!! (The wire that ran from w/Ballast connector)
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#29 96792

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Posted 08 June 2012 - 11:35 PM

Just to bring Pertronix up again,
Got a Pertronix 1281 Ignitor for 8 cyl Ford & a 1.5ohm Flamethrower.
I ran straight from the battery, (by-passing the resistor)
Set the gap, using the factory plastic feeler gage and engine would not start.
Gapped slightly closer, started and ran terrible (missing a few cyclinders).
Slapped points back in & purrs like a kitten.
*Shrugs* :blink:

Aloha,
Adam

#30 kornfed2007

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Posted 14 July 2012 - 01:38 AM

Yeah they have duds out there....... :( That was there explination, not mine
I did get a new one in a few days from summit though............. :D
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