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Crossed Wires, Burned Harness, (Ignition, Coil, Instruments)

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#1 kornfed2007

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 04:04 AM

Electrical Woes :wacko:

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Okay that's the back of my Ignition switch! The Blue wire taped on is one I put in, while broke down because coil wasn't getting fire from switch (Two Red/Golds came from that same socket from what I can make out) One hole here is empty? Any advice would be much appreciated

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This were I Chased it too, I know the Pink is Labeled Ballast Resistor(Do Not Splice) I have a 12v coil and a Ignitor, Both by Pertronix! I do not need the Pink Do I? The pink isn't burnt? I can pass this with a 12v off (RUN) on switch, Directly to (+) on coil? Notice the blue wire I had to switch meeting the connector on the same side as Ballast, wires cooked out of the other side

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What are these Conectors? they was behind the Lights, Wipers, Ignition to the far left just hanging

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OK this is the plug I don't know about from above, the insulated block has 2 Black/Green Striped coming out (Never mind the blue look, I am holding a LED Flashlight on them) one is burnt all the way to the connector, out all the way to Dash Instruments far left/right on 69' the lights (-)? for Oil and Amps

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Photo of the black/green stripe burnt slap up from the connector above! White/red was covered I removed a wire previous owner had there
(maybe what toasted the grounds?)

Any advice?
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#2 kornfed2007

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 04:17 AM

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OK Going over Diagrams Posted on the site, I have the Instrument Panel pretty much squared away!
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#3 Guitar Builder

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 09:22 AM

Electrical Woes :wacko:

Posted Image

Okay that's the back of my Ignition switch! The Blue wire taped on is one I put in, while broke down because coil wasn't getting fire from switch (Two Red/Golds came from that same socket from what I can make out) One hole here is empty? Any advice would be much appreciated

Posted Image

This were I Chased it too, I know the Pink is Labeled Ballast Resistor(Do Not Splice) I have a 12v coil and a Ignitor, Both by Pertronix! I do not need the Pink Do I? The pink isn't burnt? I can pass this with a 12v off (RUN) on switch, Directly to (+) on coil? Notice the blue wire I had to switch meeting the connector on the same side as Ballast, wires cooked out of the other side

Posted Image

What are these Conectors? they was behind the Lights, Wipers, Ignition to the far left just hanging

Posted Image

OK this is the plug I don't know about from above, the insulated block has 2 Black/Green Striped coming out (Never mind the blue look, I am holding a LED Flashlight on them) one is burnt all the way to the connector, out all the way to Dash Instruments far left/right on 69' the lights (-)? for Oil and Amps

Posted Image

Photo of the black/green stripe burnt slap up from the connector above! White/red was covered I removed a wire previous owner had there
(maybe what toasted the grounds?)

Any advice?


The yellow connector you are holding in one of the shots is for additional accessories. If you were to add something that needs power only while the ignition is on that is the easy place to plug it in. You can still buy the male versions of those connectors and many auto part stores.

#4 kornfed2007

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 12:42 PM

Thanks GuitarBuilder!
I was worried these were leaving a circuit open, I am wondering if the other could have been to the oil sender?
If so I am about finished rewiring!

The Red/Yellowish stripe that's burnt on Key switch from what I am gathering, I can run Directly to the coil, From my gatherings here looking at schematics,
Oh I see a splice off it in the schematic (904) went to the bottom wire (Near Plate Ground) on voltage regulator

All this leaves is the hopefully easy Alternator Pigtail! Looks like the last of the previous owners wiring genius
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#5 kornfed2007

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 05:28 PM

OK the Coil wire off the switch (16) Red/Gold & Red/Green, I said was to piece

1 went to the charge light

-----------------------------Pink Resistor Ballast to coil
2 went to a splitter
-----------------------------?????????????????????

I don't know what color it even was but I know it ran outside the harness sorta and burnt clean from the Ignition connector to firewall above heater behind dash then vanishes without a trace!

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#6 kornfed2007

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 09:56 PM

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What are these Convectors? they was behind the Lights, Wipers, Ignition to the far left just hanging



OK I believe the black 2 prong (female) Is horn?
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#7 zumadale

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 11:18 PM

I recently installed pertronix ignitor and after MUCH research decided to keep the resistor wire in place... the pertronix instructions say so. If ... and that's a big "IF" ... your voltage is too low to run the ignitor you can run 12 volts directly to it to test it... it says not to leave it that way! The voltage at the coil with resistor is about 9.5 volts when running... the coil likes it and the ignitor likes it. I think running direct 12 volts (which can be 13.5 volts with engine running) is asking for trouble, both with the coil (it'll get smoking hot) and the ignitor. I think this is why the pertronix gets a bad rap... the instructions are clear as mud. They show illustrations that don't make sense.

#8 dso41

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Posted 20 March 2012 - 01:09 AM

White w/red stripe is Oil pressure.
Red with white stripe is Water temp.

I always hook the pertronix things up to the ballast wire (2 leads on coil).
Never had a problem in hundreds of early Mustangs.

Pertronix used to tell you to hook it to 12 volts, now they dont tell you that.


I had the one wire fry on my 69 van on the switch (same plug as Mustang to 69 ) .
I traced it and read the schematic and found a bad wire on the alternator, somebody scraped it years ago.
I cut a new plug from a 69 falcon harness I had and soldered it on for the switch.

I have the Ford wiring big book from 69.
But my 69 van wiring was slightly different from the book.

#9 oggy bleacher

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Posted 20 March 2012 - 06:56 AM

Are you sure you don't want to use some heatshrink instead of, or over, the electrical tape? Every time I use electrical tape on my wiring it lasts about a month before it melts away because of the engine heat and becomes a huge sticky mess.
1969 E-200 Conversion Top Super Van

302 5.0 liter V8 Engine -- "Passes everything but a gas station."

#10 kornfed2007

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Posted 20 March 2012 - 08:05 AM

Are you sure you don't want to use some heatshrink instead of, or over, the electrical tape? Every time I use electrical tape on my wiring it lasts about a month before it melts away because of the engine heat and becomes a huge sticky mess.


I have had that same problem, In the past. I get the expensive tape at ACE Hardware now, LoL I also wouldn't use it under the dog house!

Behind the driver side, in the dash and instrument area doesn't get hot on my van? (Wouldn't use it in direct sunlit areas)

Probably a great Idea though on the Passenger side where the heater core and heater/returns are, I have to put a Blower Motor and Heater Coil in soon
(Grinding from fan motor - Turning the heater on fouls up the coolant)
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#11 kornfed2007

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Posted 20 March 2012 - 08:27 AM

White w/red stripe is Oil pressure.
Red with white stripe is Water temp.

I always hook the pertronix things up to the ballast wire (2 leads on coil).
Never had a problem in hundreds of early Mustangs.

Pertronix used to tell you to hook it to 12 volts, now they dont tell you that.


I had the one wire fry on my 69 van on the switch (same plug as Mustang to 69 ) .
I traced it and read the schematic and found a bad wire on the alternator, somebody scraped it years ago.
I cut a new plug from a 69 falcon harness I had and soldered it on for the switch.

I have the Ford wiring big book from 69.
But my 69 van wiring was slightly different from the book.


I recently installed pertronix ignitor and after MUCH research decided to keep the resistor wire in place... the pertronix instructions say so. If ... and that's a big "IF" ... your voltage is too low to run the ignitor you can run 12 volts directly to it to test it... it says not to leave it that way! The voltage at the coil with resistor is about 9.5 volts when running... the coil likes it and the ignitor likes it. I think running direct 12 volts (which can be 13.5 volts with engine running) is asking for trouble, both with the coil (it'll get smoking hot) and the ignitor. I think this is why the pertronix gets a bad rap... the instructions are clear as mud. They show illustrations that don't make sense.


I was definitely running it through the Pink Ballast Wire! Not spliced (which is where I expected this journey to lead when I began)
Ballast wire looked great, the 10" Red/Green stripe from the switch to the Resistor wire connector burnt? but that was a month or two, before I installed the Ignitor
I dunno????

I cut the wire out now and am going to put a ceramic style with the 2 post, (magnet/polarity)

I have the replacement "Pertronix Ignitor" already,Summit had UPS scheduled to pick it up the following day!

I am going to move to the Regulator and Alternator Wiring before installing this one, Cant see how the points have been fine for weeks, Unless the new Voltage Regulator did it? (Not a Electrician)
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#12 kornfed2007

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Posted 22 March 2012 - 02:57 PM

Okay I believe I have found where the Ignition wire goes, (other than the coil) the Starter Relay (solenoid) on the small prong bottom right (Ignition)

Is this correct?

I am running now, Cranks great, Turns off fine,

but the schematics I can find, read 16a (Pink Ballast) 262 Brown ("I" starter relay) meet at the connector ("D" Below) that takes - red/yellow to the "+"coil?

here is the diagram (not a econoline) 67 f100 matches what I have to the wire color even! even my dash with the idiot lights (oh 68 looks like the F-series changed a little) Posted Image
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2011-------------------------------------------------------------------to-----------------------------------------------------------------------2012

#13 kornfed2007

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Posted 16 September 2012 - 10:52 AM

Sheeeesh looking back on that nightmare, I dont remember half of what I was talking about months 6 later! Glad its done....That is all

(Aftermarket Tach, Trailer Brakes and Fuel Guage/Sender is all I have left)
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#14 mattkeiser

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Posted 16 October 2014 - 07:20 PM

I'm pretty new to this forum and working on cars in general so bare with me. The bullet connector that plugs into the back of the ignition switch -- like the picture shows up top -- one of my wires is oxidized -- which I believe is the right term -- and melted about a foot or so up the wire. I tried follow the wire but I got lost behind the instrument panel. It's a thick yellow wire. Does anyone know where this wire goes and what it is for? I had to pull the wires from the connector an I was wondering where I can find that connector. I bought the wrong one and can't seem to find the correct connector. Can I just reuse the connector or do I have to buy a new one? The van will not start. I just hear a clicking noise near the the passage side of the dash. I'm guessing the clicking is the starter relay but I'm not sure. Any help would be appreciated. 



#15 Tom Snyder

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Posted 17 October 2014 - 01:30 AM

I'm pretty new to this forum and working on cars in general so bare with me. The bullet connector that plugs into the back of the ignition switch -- like the picture shows up top -- one of my wires is oxidized -- which I believe is the right term -- and melted about a foot or so up the wire. I tried follow the wire but I got lost behind the instrument panel. It's a thick yellow wire. Does anyone know where this wire goes and what it is for? I had to pull the wires from the connector an I was wondering where I can find that connector. I bought the wrong one and can't seem to find the correct connector. Can I just reuse the connector or do I have to buy a new one? The van will not start. I just hear a clicking noise near the the passage side of the dash. I'm guessing the clicking is the starter relay but I'm not sure. Any help would be appreciated.

Does that mean that you repaired the burnt wire? I don’t know which connector you are asking about reusing. Off hand I don’t recall any bullet connectors at the back of the ignition switch, just a multi terminal plug. Maybe there are bullet connectors on the wires to the connector but I tend to think there are not. Without looking I’m not 100% sure of that & can’t really tell from the pic. Maybe ‘69s do have some bullet connectors there.
This is a male bullet connector. 
http://www.delcity.n...gwQZBoC7a_w_wcB
They do come in several different sizes even for the same gauge wire. I’d replace rather than reuse a bad one but you’d have to do that if replacing a section of wire anyway. Other multi wire plug-in connectors, unless they are burned up, I would clean the terminals & reuse.
If the starter solenoid/relay is just clicking that is usually the sign of a very low battery or loose or dirty battery connections. Your positive battery cable runs directly to one of the large terminals on the starter solenoid/relay. The cable on the other large solenoid terminal runs to the starter motor. Make sure all are clean & tight.

Of course It’s a good idea to to find out why the insulation on that wire was melted in the first place or after repairing it you could be right back where you started. Does the wire get hot when you try the starter? Shorted out somewhere?
Get a friend there that knows what they are doing to help you.
Was the van running before this happened? You didn’t mention that.

I copied & printed out all or most of these wiring diagrams that Randy, ‘EcumSecumGuy’, posted here. http://econolines.ip...p?showtopic=773
Labeled them by the numbers across the top of each page so I could sort them & put the pages together so as to follow the wires. Like 17-20, 19-25, 26-32, & so on. You can do that to determine where the yellow wire goes or connects.

 

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