31 replies to this topic

[Guitar Builder]

Tito, on 14 April 2012 - 10:32 PM, said:

Having a hell of a time getting the brake lights and turn signals working. Horn, windshield washer, emergency flashers, cig lighter, and brake light are non-op as well.


Fuses are all good, trailer lights were just dismantled (by me, safely), wipers work, all head/tail/marker lights work, instrument cluster lights work, dome works, heater fan works, steering wheel cancel cam looks somewhat clean (even though it doesn't work...have a new one on order), switched out the flashers for new units (both).

Anyone have any input?

I replaced my turn signal switch (about $100) and it fixed a load of problems.

http://www.shee-mar.com/parts.html
http://www.shee-mar.com/PDF/SM50F.jpg

Fix that first and see what doesn't work at that point. Your brake lights, flashers, signals and horn are all tied in to the switch. The cigarette lighter is its own entity and won't be affected by the turn signal switch but should be easy. The windshield washer is also another beast. It gets power from the wiper switch.

[Tito]

That all makes sense. That shee-mar deal might solve some of my issues. Going to do some continuity testing in the column, hopefully to rule out the $100 expense. But a good starting point, and nice to know those exist. Thank you.

[Tom Snyder]

Yikes, spendy!
http://motors.shop.e...4506.m270.l1313
I’d look around....
http://www.google.co...-1974+econoline
$81.79
http://www.rockauto....9,parttype,4832
Wonder if any of these would work. Their own part numbers are not the same, but it might be worth a call to see if one of these is a SM50F or a TS50F ...
http://broncograveya...ftermarket.html

[Guitar Builder]

Tom Snyder, on 15 April 2012 - 05:31 PM, said:

Yikes, spendy!
http://motors.shop.e...4506.m270.l1313
I’d look around....
http://www.google.co...-1974+econoline
$81.79
http://www.rockauto....9,parttype,4832
Wonder if any of these would work. Their own part numbers are not the same, but it might be worth a call to see if one of these is a SM50F or a TS50F ...
http://broncograveya...ftermarket.html

TS50F definitely wrong.

Rock Auto does have the SM50F for a good price.

Bronco alternative won't work either.

[Tom Snyder]

Guitar Builder, on 15 April 2012 - 08:06 PM, said:

TS50F definitely wrong.

Right you are! Good to know. Don’t know how you knew that but I now see that if you select Year - Make - Model – Trim in the window in this ebay ad it comes up with SM50F. http://www.ebay.com/...ssories&vxp=mtr
Except for length it’s not like all the truck steering columns aren’t about the same around the same time frame.
Sure seems weird that Ford wouldn’t have used the same switch on several models but that does seem to be the case.
Hey, here’s one for $68.36!
http://autopartlooku...p?m=SHE&p=SM50F
The ‘buy’ link took a while to come up...
http://www.esells.co...temID=SHE-SM50F
Guitar Builder, here’s another thread that you posted in that has a little info about your changing you switch in case someone comes to that point.
http://econolines.ip...topic=3238&st=0
Guitar, do you have any idea of what exactly goes wrong with the switch? I can understand switch contacts getting worn of corroded but...?

[Guitar Builder]

Tom,

I really have no idea what goes wrong within the switch itself. Electrical is not my forte and I am not really sure how the switch internally works. I do know I had lights that would go on when you turned them on, but wouldn't work when the flashers were turned on or the turn signals. I also had lights that wouldn't work normally but would as turn signals or flashers. It was screwy. The new switch fixed everything. $68 is a great price. Nice find.

[Tito]

Thanks for the help guys. I'm back to work today after minor back surgery, so my 'van time' is going to diminish a bit. I was able to polish out the oxidized paint and clean it all up inside. There was carpet screwed onto more carpet all over. Have not got around to ripping out the floor yet, but it's 2 layers of carpet over nasty plywood, and wet, so I hope its not going to be like swiss cheese. Got some big-n-little BFG Radial T/A's on, and managed to find a set of all-metal knock-offs at the swap meet yesterday to go onto my slot mags once I clean them up.

As for the switch, I got the t/s cancel cam from Rock Auto today (just two days after ordering...nice). After work tonight, I'm getting in there and just going to get my electrical spray cleaner and start getting things clean first. Really get a good look. Once that's done, some continuity testing and tracing all the wires to their associated switches/terminals.

I'm not familiar with the wiring under the hood yet. It looks good on the surface, but anything under there worth looking into?

Also, a good manual you guys can recommend? I've always liked the factory ones, but it seems it's a 4-piece set? Are Clymer or Haynes crap like always, or worth a shot?

[Marlon]

I've been enjoying following your progress. The van will be all yours when you're done, and you'll know it's been done right.

I have the 4 part manual, kind of a dark green affair. It's very good.

The Haynes and Clymer manuals aren't great as they try to cover 25 years of vans in one slim book.

[Tito]

I will know the van inside and out after a bit. Honestly the wiring doesn't look too hacked up for the age and milage and who knows how many owners prior to me. I'm going to get that kind of stuff back to stock, and have a mild re-do on the interior....I still want to be able to haul bikes and such, but also be able to crash out and camp in it.

I've wanted one for at least 15 years or so, and figured the right one would find me when it was time, and it was time. I've been watching the 4 piece manual range in price from affordable to downright ridiculous...at least on ebay. I'm on the hunt at the big swap meet next weekend. I love this time of year for swap meets.

[Tito]

After extensive cleaning, testing, and replacing the t/s cancel cam and many adjustments, I have concluded I have a problem with the hazard side of the switch. I tested the voltage on the contacts and got a reading of about half a volt give/take through all the contacts of the flasher side. They would fluctuate incrementally with moving the switch in and out, so I bit the bullet and got a new one.

Went with the SM50F through Rock Auto. I got is for about $85 shipped priority, and even though I could have saved a couple bucks elsewhere, I trust Rock Auto. There were two NOS Ford ones on ebay, but the numbers were different.

The $85 one (which in the description only goes to 1972)...http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1968-1969-1970-1971-1972-FORD-ECONOLINE-VAN-TURN-SIGNAL-SWITCH-/250991122709?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a703c9915&vxp=mtr#ht_688wt_1189

And there was another NOS one with that sold in between this afternoon and now. It had a different part number (first 4 letters, same last ones), but it was $160 and listed 73 and 74 as application years.

I am cool with the She-Mar one, I'm not an NOS nut, but just want working brakes and signals. I've read all the threads that have anything to do with this piece and the column and then some. Update when I get the switch in.

[Tito]

Well I have been busy with the van. So far I swapped out the junky seats for a nice pair of original buckets i found in the junkyard. I put the new BFG Radials on, cleaned up the oxidized front two slot mags with new lugnuts and knock-offs.

I spent the weekend on installing a Pertronix I and Flamethrower I coil. Strangely enough, after much research on here about the resistor wire, I found the previous owner already did some creative wiring and I was getting 12v to the coil and points stock. Distributor moved on me, so went to re-time it, and low and behold, my engine has no timing marks on the balancer or a pointer in any of the usual locations I looked up. So, found TDC, made a pointer, and used some MSD timing tape. Set it to about 12˚, took it for a spin, and WOW. No pinging under load, and purrs and starts like a new sewing machine (except for a rogue exhaust leak).

Funny how you get used to a crappy running engine and when you make a change such as this it is a great wake up. New plugs, wires, cap and rotor rounded out the weekend.

Also got my brake lights and turn signals working. Turns out the fuses were bad, but looked good through the glass. After replacing the steering column hazard cluster three times, i finally got out the multi-meter and started testing any wires and terminals I could get my hands on. Relief when driving in traffic is slightly more acceptable now.

Put on some of the 'deluxe' trim I found at the junk yard off the Chateau, and even threw on my old car club plaque.

Didn't get to the new Hooker headers or sidepipes, but soon.

[Marlon]

She's looking really good. Nice to see that you got that trim on. I really like the vintage paintjob, it'd be great if you could retain it without a radical do-over.

[Tito]

Thanks. That was polish job one. I wore out three terry cloth bonnets and the actual fixed foam pad on my buffer, so I need to order another. Vans have a lot of real estate to cover. I think another weekend job with polish and then wax should be as good as it gets. I swear this van has never been washed with soap in it's whole existence before I got to it. I like the original custom paint, and that was a big selling point.

[bigbadad]

Sweet van man, I like survivors. Any updates?

[Tito]

Actually not much to add. Been spending a lot of time building a HD 45" flathead. For the van, i ripped out the sagging wood paneling and 2 layers of shag carpet. Ended up just throwing some AstroTurf in the back and it fit good with a little trim. Still haven't put on the Hooker headers and side pipes that have been collecting dust. Drive the van everyday to pick up my 3 year old daughter, she is way stoked on it. We are going to camp on the North Coast in October, so have to make sure it's 100% legit by then.