Want to put on a bigger Alt. on my 71 302,have a 500 watt music system halegen head lights, And need a good Alt. that will work If anyone has put on a bigger one would like info on how good it worked for you and maybe the brand.Thanks

Never done it myself,, but I'd stay away from remanufactured stuff if I were you. The quality of the rebuilds out there nowadays is poor at best. I've sworn off all remanufactured parts until someone convinces me otherwise.

The last 4 times I've bought reman parts, I've been burned.

1. reman YF 1 barrel carb (for the 240 6 cyl.) ,,, ran worse than with the worn out 1969 carb.
2. reman distributor (also for the 240) ,,, shaft seized the first time I drove the van.
3. reman alternator (for GMC work truck) ,,, lasted 6 months.
4. reman starter (also for a GMC work truck) ,,, started the truck ONCE!!... then died.

Hi, Factory Ford Alt. from that time period came in two basic output models. 42 amp for non A/C applications and 63 amp for A/C applications. Both used the same size case and wiring the only difference was the A/C version had a double belt pulley on it and it could be changed back to a single. Ford used the same basic alt case on all there cars and trucks from 1965 to the late 1970's. There are aftermarket units that use this style case and put around a 100 amps. This would be the largest output from a case that would be a bolt in job. There are also the options between 1 wire and 3 wire alt upgrades and I have posted a link that may help you understand the differences between them. John



http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltec...threewire.shtml

The first link does not seem to work try this one. John

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltec...threewire.shtml

John,
I just got one from a junkyard off a late 70's Grand Marquie I think...anyway, it had power everything and it was mounted the same way as the one in my '74, including similar connectors. Are you saying it's only a 63 amp? It does have the double pulley.

Hi,
From 1965 when Ford first started putting Alt. on till late 70's early 80's Ford used the same basic alt that came in a 42 amp model and a double pulley 63 to 65 amp model. If you got A/C on the car it would come with a 63 to 65 amp alt. model. The case was fairly small and had wire terminals that attached to the back of the alt. and were covered up with plastic or rubber caps. In the Mid 1970's Ford introduced a 70 and 100 amp model but the case was twice the size of the normal unit and it had one wire for power and a plastic offset plug with two wires that pushed into the back side of the case almost like the old GM models did. Starting in the early to mid 1980's with the introduction of computers Ford like a lot of other manufactures started using smaller offshore model alt. that start with amp. ratings in the 120 range all the way up to 160 to 180 range. These models in most cases all so have the regulator built into them unlike the early models were the regulator was a seperate part. Also these Alt. use a serpintine belt verses the old style V belt. So unless you purchase one of the older style 60's / 70's alt that have been beefed up like the ones offered by Summit or other sellers the best stock one you are going to find is around 63 amps.

Here is something to think about. Back in 1956 Ford went from 6V system to 12V. 50+ years later we still have 12V but that is coming to an end in the near future. Look for future voltage changes on cars and trucks to be in the 24V to 36V range. Because of power needs of future products on car and trucks 12V will nolonger handle the load. Do you remember the option a few years back for GM Pickups were the rear wheels would steer? This was a first attempt for fly by wire on a automotive application. Were electric motors turn the wheels and there are no mechanical parts doing the job. This is what they have planned for the future to turn your front wheels but they need to up the power to make the motors work. Just think your steering wheel is only attached to your front wheels by electric wires and a couple of motors! Can't wait to see the law suites over this when one fails or starts acting wrong. I know the process has been used on airplanes and other aerospace projects but this will be one thing I will let other people try out for sometime before I would consider buying a car or truck with it. John

John,, personally,, I feel that a lot of this fancy electronic BS is just more crap that takes away from the actual driving experience.
And I think it's ford that has some sort of gizmo that alerts the driver if they are fading into another lane.. WTF is that about??.. Are driver's so friggin preoccupied with their conference calls, that they need to have the car pay attention to the road?. So, when that thing fails to work, are there going to be lawsuits because some idiot side-swipped a semi ?. Hey,, my car didn't tell me that there was a 50 foot vehicle next to me!.

How about we put all this extra crap on the back burner, and concentrate more on building simple reliable cars.

And we wonder why so many people are buying foreign vehicles.

Thats a good one. In the future my car wont only have to pass emmisions it will have to pass a driving test huh.

Well the import guys are at it too. Have you seen the commercial were the Lexus does a parallel park using the front and rear distance sensors and steers the car on its own? This is a new feature that can be bought this year as an option. You gotta wonder what they are thinking when they come up with this stuff. I will take my old Merc muscle car any day of the week I just have to get use to looking at the gas gauge again as it does not have an idiot light or bell to tell me it’s low or out of gas. John

Yup, I saw that Lexus on Good Morning America. Did you hear them saying that it won't work if you are trying to parallel park on a hill?. I guess it's because the engine only idles when that system is working. Seems pointless to introduce something like that, when it only works on flat roads. But, you know they'll sell a million of them anyway.

if you're not looking for era specific parts...there is no substitute.(i'm sure if you dig you will find one that's right for the van)

http://www.mean-green.com/products/alternator.html

http://www.mean-green.com/products/200amp.html

...or you could always head on down to the wreckers and dig up an ambulance or fire truck. they've got fairly large alternators. although some of the older ambulances just ran 3 or 4 alternators i think.

Halo, Good Web site info. But stay away from the Ambulances / Fire truck stuff. They were special alt, cost to much to fix when they broke and required more of your engines power to run. The web site info would be more of the way to go. John

I put a 100 amp GM (boo-hiss) alternator on my 1970 e300. It's a one wire that was cheaper at the parts store than the replacement 43 amp'er it came with.

I had to take a file and cleanup the inside edge edge of the tensioner, and make my own spacers. otherwise a bolt in.

Ran the charging wire right to the starter solenoid post, and put a heavier positive battery cable on.
I taped off the existing plug to the voltage regulator in case it ever needs to be changed back.

Been running for over a year now with no troubles.

My$.02 YMMV.

John, is that true for more than just the altenators on ambulances? I am thinking about buying a used ambulance (E350) to use as my work van (I need the extra space and storage compartments).
Brian

not trying to burst anyone's bubble but if you're only running a 500-watt stereo and halogens on top of the factory stuff, your amperage draw shouldn't be more than say 70 max....BUT, I can testify to DB Electrical in Tennessee. I've purchased 3 alternators from them in the last couple of years and they will consult with you on upgrading your current alternator to a higher amperage one.
They offer rebuilds and new stuff as well. I went from the stock 105 on my Chevy pickup to a 200 amp alternator for less than $150 with all new parts and bearings inside. I even upgraded the wife's exploder to a 150 amp alternator from stock.
DB Electrical, I found them via ebay but I can find their number if you want to call them.



if you look at some of the Mustang aftermarket places, you could probably find it elsewhere, but they make a one-wire conversion kit that completely bypasses the original voltage regulator allowing to use the newer alternators such as yours. Good information from you though, now I want to do this to mine!

I just bought a ninty amp alt. for my 74 in case I needed it driving my van down the Baja, it was a new one (not a rebuilt) from Car Quest A.P. and I was surprised that it was not that pricy: I think like $70 bucks... Greg P.S. this is a direct bolt on unit. You might check it out.

Car-Quest AP sales a 90 amp direct bolt on for about $70 bucks. It's new not a rebuilt!! That will handle all but the most wild stereo system installs. Greg

Brian, Ambulance and Fire truck applications a lot of times are ordered special based on the needs of the company getting them. Generally they are almost the same but there can be some differences. Most Fire truck stuff is maintained well over the years were Ambulance companies may not give there stuff the same love and care as the Fire people do. One being more a business (Ambulance) verses a life passion (Fire companies). These trucks come with alot of heavy duty items that will cost more to maintain or replace even if you are the one doing the job. Depending on your business some of the options on these vans come in handy like converters for running tools and other equipment. You will have to decide on what makes more sense to purchase, one of these or a plan cube style van to cover your needs. John

Hi everyone!

Got a question? is there a link on here for Car Quest AP??? I want one of those 90 Amp alternators.

Thanks

Ron