Hey guys I got a nice rattling sound coming from my radius arm and it only happens when I go over deep bumps. I know it's the bushing, but I need to know a good procedure for removing and replacing them... any suggestions?

Hello Axonwarrior,
I have not done the radius arm bushing swap.
You say DEEP holes?
Your front I-Beams will bottom out on the rubber snubber which will be pretty loud.

From Pintony

Well maybe I exaggerate a tad...

It really doesn't happen when I corner, or go over small bumps. It really only makes noise when I dip through railroad crossings, or go through a bumpy downtown district.

Also, I checked the arm bushings and they are a little old, but they still seem in good shape...

I'll check the rubber stops for wear and check my shock mount...

Anything else I should troubleshoot?

Funny you should ask about radius arm bushings as I have spent the last four days trying to locate the correct ones and then install them.

The first and best check on radius arm bushings is to lift on the radius arm close to the bushing bracket and take a close look at the bushing. If you see an excessive amount of space when you lift(not lift the whole van just lift the arm up).

If you can move it up and down within the bracket that is another indicator it is bad.

The easiest way to change it out is to first properly support the vehicle in the air, next remove the front tires. Change out both sides even if it looks like only one is bad. Place a jack under the bolt that holds the axle to the radius arm(the bolt you can see through the bottom of the spring). Raise the arm with the jack enough to have tension on the spring. To be safest place spring compressors on the spring to hold it from opening. In the footwell you will see an access plate under the carpet,remove it. You can see the shock upper mount bolts and two bolts in a cup shaped piece. Loosen the two bolts in the cup until they are loose enough to unhook the piece on it's bottom from the spring top. Remove the cotter pin from the nut at the end of the radius arm, then remove the nut and take off the outer radius arm bushing washer and bushing. Now go to the axle pivot bushing. Up under the engine cradle. Once it is loose it takes a little wrangling about to geet it to come out of the bracket but get it dropped down then go back to the radius arm and pull it forward and out of the bracket. The new bushing goes in in reverse order.

While you have the axle pivot bushing down check it for wear and replace now if necessary easiest time to do this. Tighten everything according to the torque specs.

I am going to try to use my son's digital camera and show you some pictures.

Sure helps take away that clang and surprise surprise once the alignment is redobne on it the wear on the tires goes down(for a while at least).

Oh yeah. Check the fit of the bushings and the wear on the bracket and radius arm, if the bushing has been bad for long there can be damage to these items. Salvage yards or a good machine shop are the only remedies for this.

Holy smokes!

ALL THAT!

Upon first glance it looked like such an easy morning project. You know, the one you can do after the first cup of coffee while you smoke your morning cigarette.
I guess I was mistaken.

I totally appreciate those instructions. I've already pasted and printed them, and put them on the wall of my office.

With explanations as thorough as this I may have to go back through all of the topics and paste and catalog the really good stuff on my hard drive.

Nice instructions Leftover.... I'd rather follow the steps from someone that has done this than follow a Hayne's or Chilton's book.

First I can't get pictures posted. I think senility or brain spasms has disabled me from posting it. I have the pictures on my hard drive but not able to figure out how to put them in my post. I of course have some good pictures of a trashed bushing!?!

Anyway, the job is a good morning project but not as long as it sounds in my description. In other words a good saturday project.

Much of this is assuming some basics: like don't let the arm go down too far and tear your brake hose, the spring compressors are safety but you can get by without them(I chose to err on the side of safety, I really don't want to see anyone get hurt, so the axom better safe than sorry is applicable), the worn bushings come out easier than the ones in "decent" condition, and if you aren't sure what the torque settings are(I assumed we have manuals) ask because my manual has them and I am sure John and Roger and Pintony or anyone else would also willingly get that info for whoever needs it.

OH and by the way I love this forum.

Thanks to everyone,
David

Leftover,
You can use the "File Attachments" thing near the bottom of the screen when you're posting a message. You either have to post one picture at a time, or make all of the pictures into one larger picture with an image editing program. The size of the file can be no larger than 800k.

You can always e-mail the pictures to me, and I can post them for you if you would like.

(I may be wrong, so if any of you 'puter wizards out there can correct me please do!)

Another way is to have web space to upload it to first... i.e. personal web pages, websites, or angelfire hosted type web spaces...

If you have Comcast, or Bellsouth Broadband you have some space on their servers. You just have to log in on their homesites and find out what their server name is and you may be able to use your own username and password to upload images via FTP commanders. Or, upload it with their image service. Then copy and paste the location ex. http://home.comcast.net/~z_o_e/wsb/Doris.jpg in the IMG function in the Add Reply window.

It seems complicated I'm sure, but if you learn to do it once it opens up your web capabilities 3 fold!

Good luck!

You're right AxonWarrior... I forgot the obvious option. The only thing I would add, is that "free web space" servers can be kind of touchy about allowing you to put links to your pictures onto web sites that aren't also on that same server. Sometimes the first couple people that click on the link will see the picture, and then the link goes dead. It's a bandwidth thing.... Nothing good is free I guess...

Yo Axon, you are describing what is going on with my van too. The reason for my suspension posts in the last few days. You might want to also check your King Pins. Raise the vans front tire off the ground and wiggle the tire to see if the pins are loose.

I'm new here and I'm relatively new to vans I've got a 74 E 200 and the first thing I did was the radius arm bushings. I started out doing it in the above mentioned way but was really struggling with the nut inside the coil ,,,soooo upon some head scratching I was able to drop the rear bracket where the bushing is actually located. 5 or 6 nuts and bolts hold it on can't remember exactly undo the nut on the end of the radius arm first took me about 90mins on the first side 60 min on the drivers side.

Here is the offending part.

The nice "mess" to contend with.

Through the wheel well.

The axle pivot.

Lift!

The springs inner sanctum. You can see how nicely the brake hose is right in the way and doesn't have much room to "stretch" for the drop.

The big bolt in the middle of the spring is the bolt to disassemble the two parts so you don't have to drop the axle pivot(personally think dropping the pivot is easier).

Right after removing the retaining nut and washer, before the start of wrenching , twisting, cussing, busting knuckles, etc to get that shaft to come through the bushing and retainer.

Another shot of the bracket. A thought comes to mind, my bracket still had the original rivets to the frame. Mine is also a '69 E-300.

I am unsure if grey ghosts was bolted because it is newer or because someone had to remove the rivets and exchange the bracket at some time in the past. It seems they are riveted from the factory, but if they have been damaged or sometimes a shop will unrivet them to do the repair.

Unriveting is an option but bolts are not always as "sturdy" so I opt not to remove the rivets, but that is my personal opinion. It does save a humungous hassle if you do opt to remove the rivets. Just presenting both sides here and of course my prejudiced opinion, muahahahahahahaaaa.

Note how the draglink(tierod) goes through the radius arm, use care to not lower or move enough to hit or bend the draglink.

The passenger footwell with the cover plate removed to get at the shock upper mount to remove.

The upper spring retainer which is in the footwell that has to be removed.

Axle pivot unbolted and dropped.

Showing shock undone with axle dropped and note position of the draglink(that is a pain).

The fun begins. As the radius arm comes out it's weight will drop and the axle pivot will flip around. you can see how it all "balances" on the jack holding the axle and radius arm attachment bolt.

The old bushing.

New bushing.

The old washers, man do they get beaten.

Some more pics of the bad bushings.

Hey Leftover,
How did the results payoff???
Was it worth the work?????
I'm in need of installuing the bushings Too.
From Pintony

Nice job with the pictures leftover.

Those pictures are from a year ago just finally found them and figured out how to put them on here. The banging went away, and the ride is much better.

The polyurethane bushings are I believe the best to use. They will last longer and stiffen up the ride a bit. Which in a smooth riding caddy would be a pain especially the extra noise they create, but in our vans that noise is below the level of the "ordinary" noises we always have.

Definitely worth the work and a whole lot cheaper than a shop. Seems I was quoted anywhere from 150-200 for them to install them plus parts. I only had to pay for the parts, $14.95 plus tax.

Thanks about the pics the best I could do with son's cheapy digicam, but at least better than none.

David

Leftover, I've heard things in the past about polyurethane bushings squeaking a bit. Have you noticed that at all?... Seems I read somewhere that some companies are impregnating them with graphite now though,, so maybe it's not a problem anymore.

Nothing noticeable over the regular squeaks and bumps of a 36 year old van. In a real quiet car it would be noticeable. The big advantage is it doesn't have the "give" of the rubber, they don't deflect as much and the extra sturdiness of polyurethane equates, from the research(at least from the sources I have seen over the past twelve or so years) indicates they will last about twice the time rubber ones do.

After the banging from the bad bushings the thing could squeak pretty loud and not be noticeable because of the relative quiet. The graphite impregnated would probably be good.

Worth the upgrade.

Now if I could just take care of the rebuild the engine problem. The engine was put in from a dying '77 Granada and I knew it wouldn't last but I was hoping it would last until I could afford to rebuild another engine for it. Oh well the dreams of mice and men, right?

David

Yes, radius are bushing's are a pain, little torch heat on the long bolt "nut" to remove. Moog makes an updated bushing, nice blue one, can get from Rock Auto .com.
While doing these is a good time to replace the coil spings. and disconect the brake line.
Good luck

Brett

yeah I put those Moogs on my Quadravan.
another question while on subject, I have a leaf spring band that is loose and slides around on springs.
how can I reclamp it?

Mitch

Mitch
My 74 they rusted off and I replaces with heavy duty worm gear hose clamp's "It worked anyway" On my 73 I took my giant chanel lock pliers and tightend them up till they were secure. Spring shop would sell us some if needed, they must use a special tool?
Always wanted to add a helper coil spring between the rear axle and frame, has anyone tried this? I found a kit ," for our vans" for increased load capacity, its a rubber cuthion looking thing, 1500 and 3000 pound ones, going to call rock auto and ask? Not cheap..$265. My van is my work shop, and carry lots of tools, never have to worry about breaking down, can repair anywhere.
Brett

if van is one ton I would not add helpers or air bag to it. what could you possibly gain? are you towing a 5,000 pound trailer or anything?

Mitch