Hey all, I got the Lokar cable all hooked up on my 74 a few days ago. It was a pretty simple process. I had to make a small bracket to bolt to the firewall, but other than that,, everything else was included in the kit that I used. Carb bracket, return springs for the carb end,, etc... I took a whole mess of pictures, so if anyone is interested in doing this,, I could throw together a simple web page showing how I did mine... I think that would work better than posting everything here.

hey roger.
i'd be interested in the kit# from lokar and to see the photos. my van lurches forward very easily due to (i think) a not so smooth/bent? throttle linkage. just as im trying to smoothly get the van going from a stand still. really hard to not lurch

thanks
mark

Hey there Mark. The kit that I used is part number DP-1000U-36. The 36 is the length of the cable. I started making a web page with all the pictures and stuff,, but then realized I was making it look way more complicated than it was.

The first thing you want to do before you unhook your original rod linkage, is to measure the distance from the gas pedal to the floor. Just so you end up with the pedal back in the same general position when you're done.

After disconnecting the rod linkage setup,,, hook the ball stud for the cable onto your carb linkage. If you already have a ball stud on your linkage that fits the lokar cable end, just use that one.
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Next thing I did was to install the cable bracket at the rear of the carb. The pictures aren't great, but the hole in the bracket is oblong, and there's also a set screw on the side of the bracket that you snug down against the side of the carb base.. Both of these things allow you to get the bracket set so the cable will be running in a straight line to the carb linkage.

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Once you have the bracket in the right position, you can snug it down. Then hook up the return springs. You can see the bracket set screw better in this picture.

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You might notice that the hole I have the return springs hooked to is normally where your transmission kickdown rod hooks on. I don't have a kickdown rod on my van right now, but Lokar provides a little piece in the kit to deal with that. It attaches to the linkage along with your kickdown rod, and has a second hole in it to hook your return springs to.

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To run the cable through the cable bracket, you'll need to take the cable end off. It's held on by another little set screw through a brass fitting. The kit comes with 2 allen (hex) wrenches. One fits the cable end set screw,, the other fits the carb bracket's set screw.

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Run the cable through the bracket, put the end back on, and hook it up.
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Next thing I did, was to figure out how to hook up the other end of the cable to the pedal arm. If you look around on the Dorman website, I think they have an end just like the lokar one that's on the carb linkage end of the cable. Lokar might even sell you one.... If you can find one of those, you could hook right up to the ball stud that's on the pedal arm. As it is, the lokar kit that I used really isn't put together to hook to a ball stud on both ends. Here's the cable end that comes with it.
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I decided to knock out the ball stud on the pedal arm and use the lokar end. Just grind the little weld on the back of the arm (that holds the ball stud),, then use a pointed chisel to knock the little bugger out.
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Getting bored yet?

This is the only part where you're going to have to do a little fabricating. You need a bracket to attach the the firewall to keep the whole darn cable from moving when you stomp on the pedal. This was just a little L bracket that I had lying around. I drilled 2 small holes in it to fasten it to the firewall, and one hole for the cable to go through. The cable end on the this end of the cable doesn't come off like the carb end one does. So you'll have to make a slot across the cable hole to get the cable in there.
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You have to make sure you bolt this little bracket on in the right spot. To do that, put your gas pedal up off the floor the same distance that it was with the rod linkage setup. There is a cable slack adjustment at the carb end of the cable (at the bracket),,, put that adjustment at the mid way point like I have mine in one of the previous pictures.
Now, with the cable hooked to the pedal arm, and also snugged to your homemade bracket,,, hold your little fabricated bracket against the firewall at a spot where there's no slack between the pedal arm, and your bracket.. And also where the cable is running in a straight line between them. Mark your spots for fastening the bracket, drill the holes,, and bolt it up.
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Almost forgot,,,, I ended up drilling another small hole in the bracket (and one in the pedal arm) to attach another return spring from the bracket to the pedal arm.


That's how I did mine. Now,, aren't you glad that I didn't post all of the pictures?.

thanks for the walk thru. im going to add this one to my list of spring jobs.


cheers
mark

roger,
why does it look like the cable is running towards the back doors in this photo.? do you loop the cable back to the pedal....because of our engines being behind the gas pedal.??

i also found the cable end to attach to the stock throttle. seem right to you?
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku

thirdly, was the final spring onto the pedal a safety issue, or just better feel...

thx mark

Hey there Mark.. The cable is running towards the rear. It comes up from the rear of the carb and pulls from the back side of the carb. If you were to run it so it was pulling from the front, you'd have to hook it up to the linkage in a different spot or it wouldn't open the carb when it pulled. Like I mentioned earlier, I don't have a kickdown rod on my van right now, so I don't know if the cable being back there is going to be in the way. If I think of it, I'll check that out tomorrow.
That cable end looks like the right one. You'd just have to cut off the little ball on the lokar cable, and use that end instead.

The extra spring at the pedal arm is for both of the reasons you mentioned. For one, the return springs provided with the lokar kit didn't feel strong enough to bring the pedal back up. It didn't snap back the way I wanted it to. I also don't like a mushy pedal. That's one thing that I hate about newer cars. The spring I used was about the diameter of the larger spring in the lokar kit,, but it's quite a bit longer. It was a universal throttle return spring that I got at the local parts store. I think I saved the little card it was on with the part number. I don't know if I got lucky in the way I hooked mine up or not, but I hooked it up so it had a small amount of tension on it when the throttle is closed. Not so much that it lifted the pedal up more after closing, but enough to help the throttle close completely and have a good feel as soon as you pushed on the pedal.
I think I made that sound a lot more confusing that I needed to.

thx. its all clear now. here'sa pic of my old beast. the kickdown is on the other side and higher, so i think the lokar kit would work. i may have to install a different kickdown when my C4 gets installed. i believe there is a bracket that accepts two cables coming in, is yours like that

does the throttle feel great or what?.,. mine is awful right now.

again thx for the tips

mark

I'm not absolutely certain, but I think the bracket in the kit is made to accept the throttle cable and also a lokar kickdown cable. We're dealing with 2 different carbs here, so hopefully it works for you as well. You might have to make some little adjustments to hooking things up so the carb opens completely when you hit the gas, but doesn't end up wide opened with the pedal half way to the floor.

In my opinion, the throttle is firm and smooth. But I think it's a matter of personal preference. Some folks might think it's too responsive or not responsive enough.