For the Scarebird conversion? I used GM but this looks more like a direct bolt in, including switch connector.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-Univer...sQ5fAccessories


the only downside I see is no mounting bracket.


Greg?

Hey Randy,

How about one off of a late 70's to 2009 Ford Van?

Vic

Hmmm..interesting. I was just wondering if Westcoast Mark may be able to find a closer fit than the GM one. (the GM one works tho)

I put a 73-79 F100 proportioning valve on mine. It plugged right in , bracket and all from the junkyard..$5.00! As a matter of fact I'm going to head back up there in a few weeks and pick a few more up.
I'm pretty sure the valves are rated according to the weight of the vehicle. I don't know what a Mustang weighs or what an E200 weighs but it might be worth checking out!..now.. if I can only get ALL THAT AIR out of my lines I'll be happy!

Randy B

Good luck I still have an air pocket somewhere!

John suggested a pressure bleeding system. I'll try this if I can't get it completely out.

Ford wanted $400-500 for a late 70's proportioning valve here locally. there are no 70-79's left in the junkyards here. We are in the ultimate rust belt (salted road and salt air) and they disintegrated.

Randy, did you bleed your prop valve? I have a lot of air in my system yet and that's one of the things I have not done but will probably do tomorrow. I've also heard that when doing a complete brake teadown that you need to disconnect the front rubber brake lines and have someone step on the brakes. Supposedly there is so much air in the rubber line that the master cylinder just can't push it out. Not sure how true that is but I'll probably try it if the bleeding of the prop valve does not work.
I'll get back to you in a few days and let you know what happened!

Randy B

One trick I've had some luck with in the past,, was to crack the bleeder screw opened, and give the pedal a good hard and fast pump. Then bleed the brakes as normal after that.. Doesn't always work though.

the inlinetube web site still have the 70's prop valve for ford trucks ($85)...I have a motive pressure bleeder that I've been fairly sucessful with too. got it cheap off e-bay.....I do have trouble getting it to seal at 1st..... I'm also a big fan of "at 1st " do a gravity bleed.
Dave

it seems as though a 'ford' prop. valve is a hard thing to come by. they dont have them on inlinetube.com (just one that will suffice with still the wrong electrical connection and an extra valve?)

i am in the same boat as Randy...salted roads and salty pacific!

Randy B....if you find a 'spare' prop. valve i'd be interested in buying it off you.

having said that i may just stick to Randy's GM one....it works

thanks
mark

hey Vic,
can such a thing be bought? i noticed inlinetube.com had a mopar prop. valve that looks very similiar to the one Don used in his saginaw conversion VML-104 (Mopar - Jeep) '72 charger disc/drum $95.00

but if the electrical wont hook up....this is all a bit pointless

westcoast mark...that propvalve for the fords is a 5 port... 1 for r-front, 1 L-front, 2 from the master cly, 1 for the rear brakes, no "extra valves" and it only needs a connector "end" not the whole wire. it looks just like the one I put on jklnhyd van.... 'sept that one is for dual piston calipers ..
Dave

If you need a picture from me, tell me what and I will take it.

thanks....was it a direct electrical hook up?

mark

that wire comes from the brake warning light. When you lose your brakes it is supposed to come on.
In days passed most of those bulbs either burned out or they were removed due to the pressure-differential valve freezing up and causing the light to stay on.
dave

yup no doubt on that

do u know if the van's connector hooked up without any mods?

thx
mark

it's just a one connector, and it hooked right up....

happen to know the part # on inlinetube?
thx

that part # is VFL-101...says it's for 73-79 f150-f250 's. '73 was the first year for disc's up front for trucks..... too bad all the old fords are gone from your area.....
Dave

thanks man
yeah, i lost my '89 econo to the rust. both front body mounts were not attachec to the frame any more. but i got the '74 to replace it. much happier.

that was the valve i was looking at too ....do you see the notes on it about the extra valve that might be plugged?

----Ford Truck Valve Notes:
The electrical lead is not the same, the wire would need a new lead. The valve also has one extra port that could be plugged. The original valve was cast iron. The new valve has the same mounting holes, but some of the fitting sizes may also be different. We offer this valve because no other is available, so this is the last resort. -------


thanks for the help
mark

Hey Randy: What's making you think you have air trapped somewhere?

My brake light comes on during a hard brake..it flickers and goes off. Brakes seem to work ok but there appears to be some issue with equalization of pressure - the piston in the valve is tripping hte light switch. I assumed a air pocket somewhere.