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junk yard doner Van, time to rebuild and clean, paint and install.
Full Version: Brake Conversion
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Sandblasted backing plates, rebuilding calipers next.
Sandblasted backing plates, rebuilding calipers next.
What vehicle are the calipers/rotors /backing plates from?
Randy B
Randy B
Those darn E-300 owners are lucky!! I saw this conversion in an article a few years ago at FTE.
nice work documenting it
nice work documenting it
So all you need is what you took for power brakes? Nothing else?
I believe the brake pedal ass'y from the power brake donor van is also required. I think I remember Randy saying so when he did his van a few years ago.
There is also an air line that goes to the booster from the intake manifold.
The disc brake job that is being done at the same time here is not necessary for a power brake up grade, but sure is sweet.
There is also an air line that goes to the booster from the intake manifold.
The disc brake job that is being done at the same time here is not necessary for a power brake up grade, but sure is sweet.
Yes..the power brake pedal arm is different.
The ones I have, are from a 1971 or 1973 Ford truck F-250
Mike,
Is that a recent junkyard pic of the donor van? I need an ac dryer that I can have rebuilt so I can get my air running.
Just wait until you drive it with disk brakes, you will love it. Start finding everything for power steering and you will be set.
If you need to look at one that has been done, for reference, by me another 18 pack of bud light, mow my lawn, feel free to give give a call.
Is that a recent junkyard pic of the donor van? I need an ac dryer that I can have rebuilt so I can get my air running.
Just wait until you drive it with disk brakes, you will love it. Start finding everything for power steering and you will be set.
If you need to look at one that has been done, for reference, by me another 18 pack of bud light, mow my lawn, feel free to give give a call.
QUOTE (69 classic pop-top @ Sep 21 2009, 08:39 PM) 
Those mirrors would be a good score if the price was right.
Looking good. Wouldn't it be easier to do the PB right now since you have everything apart? I remembered reading somewhere that you had all of the parts...
this is gonna be sweet when it's done
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Getting Closer.
Getting Closer.
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More Pics.
More Pics.
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more pics.
more pics.
Wanted: '69-'74 E300 front hubs/brake drums. Will pay big bucks.
Looks like this:
Man, I don't throw nothin' away.
Especially reusable mechanical parts. Hell, as heavy as those are they might even be used as a base for some sort of upright stand.
At the least I'd add it to a pile to take to the metal recyclers.
Nope, I don't throw out much at all.
That's why my yard looks like a junkyard.
69 Pop-top, I have always wanted a pop top mid van, never could find one here. Would fit in a garage, yet be real comfy when camping. If JKLNHYD was closer I'd have bought the top he had.
I'd prefer an E200, but I'd take yours in a heartbeat. It is already pretty damn sweet, now it's gonna be even better.
Looks like this:
Man, I don't throw nothin' away.
Especially reusable mechanical parts. Hell, as heavy as those are they might even be used as a base for some sort of upright stand.
At the least I'd add it to a pile to take to the metal recyclers.
Nope, I don't throw out much at all.
That's why my yard looks like a junkyard.
69 Pop-top, I have always wanted a pop top mid van, never could find one here. Would fit in a garage, yet be real comfy when camping. If JKLNHYD was closer I'd have bought the top he had.
I'd prefer an E200, but I'd take yours in a heartbeat. It is already pretty damn sweet, now it's gonna be even better.
QUOTE (Tom Snyder @ Oct 23 2009, 06:35 PM)
If JKLNHYD was closer I'd have bought the top he had.
Tom,
Rest assured, I still have the poptop, but...
Mike, 69 Poptop, came over with a 36 pack of Bud Light and together we stripped the aluminum off the roof. Then, after I had about 6 beers (Mike doesn't drink) he talked me into "storing" the parts in my garage for "a week or so". What he didn't tell me was that it was one of those 90 day weeks, which may turn into a "littltle longer".
Anyway, all is good, he does not realize that I am charging him a storage fee so the longer, the better. 
Mike,
Just kidding with you, don't get a sensitive.
And, why didn't you paint the booster and master cylinder?
QUOTE (JKLNHYD @ Oct 26 2009, 08:43 PM)
And, why didn't you paint the booster and master cylinder?
Mike's going to pull that booster and MC off and paint them after he's done with the brake conversion... Right Mike?..
This just looks too awesome!! I want to do the same thing to my E-300. You don't have any clearance issues with the 16" rims? I see you have dual piston calipers, but I thought somewhere I read that those came from a late 70's F-250, not early 70s. Could you please give us a rundown of exactly what parts you used to do the conversion? I'd greatly appreciate it because I want to do this conversion too. Thanks!
man that is lookin' pretty sweeeeet
QUOTE (yogreasygramma @ Oct 28 2009, 03:07 PM)
This just looks too awesome!! I want to do the same thing to my E-300. You don't have any clearance issues with the 16" rims? I see you have dual piston calipers, but I thought somewhere I read that those came from a late 70's F-250, not early 70s. Could you please give us a rundown of exactly what parts you used to do the conversion? I'd greatly appreciate it because I want to do this conversion too. Thanks!
The E300 conversion is pinned. Pinned threads are in the top part of each category. Poptop is using the same parts and components ase EconoDave used.
I have 16's on my E300 and they do not rub or any other issues.
that caliper set looks like it is going to limit end stop steering?
is a single piston set less confining and would a single piston set fit in a wide 15" rim? if not I would need a whole new set of wheels and tires. I'm pretty sure I have seen discs on 15" rims before.
Mitch
is a single piston set less confining and would a single piston set fit in a wide 15" rim? if not I would need a whole new set of wheels and tires. I'm pretty sure I have seen discs on 15" rims before.
Mitch
QUOTE (69 classic pop-top @ Oct 23 2009, 06:22 PM)
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More Pics.
More Pics.
is that your voltage regulator way over in the right corner
I have not yet checked that Mitch, good Question.
The 16s work so far but it's tight. I used 1973 truck F-250 parts and Johns right I used Econos thread as a guide, but there is a lot of things left out.
I will detail these things when finished.
Mike
I will detail these things when finished.
Mike
No. Its for the duel Battery set up.
I'm loving this job. I think I'm going to try to collect the parts I need for the same swap over the next year or so. (my van is a 300 also)
A couple of questions:
1) any issues with moving the hood latch mechanism to accomodate the booster cylinder? Was the sheet metal of the cowl and the grille set up to accomodate this change?
2) any issues with the booster and the underside of your hood? Or do you have a later hood already on there?
I ask because I've got some parts socked away for a friend, but he has a 70, so I'm not sure it will all work on his van without mods.
Marlon
A couple of questions:
1) any issues with moving the hood latch mechanism to accomodate the booster cylinder? Was the sheet metal of the cowl and the grille set up to accomodate this change?
2) any issues with the booster and the underside of your hood? Or do you have a later hood already on there?
I ask because I've got some parts socked away for a friend, but he has a 70, so I'm not sure it will all work on his van without mods.
Marlon
QUOTE
1) any issues with moving the hood latch mechanism to accomodate the booster cylinder? Was the sheet metal of the cowl and the grille set up to accomodate this change?
Click to view attachmentMy NOS grill had both options."my original grill did not"
Click to view attachmentI had to drill hole in cowl as shown.
Some other details:
Click to view attachment The Oil tube is different, offset for the angle, but the original can be used.Click to view attachment
Click to view attachmentHood latch is cut different too.
Click to view attachment The Oil tube is different, offset for the angle, but the original can be used.Click to view attachment
Click to view attachmentHood latch is cut different too.
Fantastic pics and additional details on this mod. I hadn't checked in on this thread for a few, and whamo, you got some good work done. My first look at the E300 rear brakes too.
I'm really looking forward to hearing another review of the improvement, once all done and test driven, and then pads seated in after a few breakin/seat miles.
Also can't wait to hear any summary of the additional details referenced as being left out of the pinned thread.
Neat van too, really dig this van.
Thanks for posting.........
I'm really looking forward to hearing another review of the improvement, once all done and test driven, and then pads seated in after a few breakin/seat miles.
Also can't wait to hear any summary of the additional details referenced as being left out of the pinned thread.
Neat van too, really dig this van.
Thanks for posting.........
The van I did the conversion on already had powerbrakes, so I didn't need to move hood latches and stuff. Back in the days I discovered the conversion .....I didn't even have a digital camera yet to document with pic's. I am curious which master cylinder you used though.......Mine was sort of a generic one from carquest.
econoD
econoD
QUOTE
2) any issues with the booster and the underside of your hood? Or do you have a later hood already on there?
Click to view attachmentI had to buy newer hood for it, with the cut out.
QUOTE
that caliper set looks like it is going to limit end stop steering?
Click to view attachment Everything clears fine.
Sweet, nice work!
Hey mike,
Can you post up the parts that you bought new or repaired and where you got them. This is an important build and someone 2 years from now will be asking and no one will know.
I also have an E300 and Mike showed me his nuts and I loved them right away!
Ok, Mike showed me his parts and I got excited!
Ok, whatever, Mike, can you please post where you got all of the things that you are putting into this build, and the part numbers.
And,
what size socket is that nut? I need to do my brakes and want to do it right.
What is the proper reinstallation of that nut? Is it torque? Placement? What? I can read my book but, you know, this is easier and sometimes the book is different than what really works.
Can you post up the parts that you bought new or repaired and where you got them. This is an important build and someone 2 years from now will be asking and no one will know.
I also have an E300 and Mike showed me his nuts and I loved them right away!
Ok, Mike showed me his parts and I got excited!
Ok, whatever, Mike, can you please post where you got all of the things that you are putting into this build, and the part numbers.
And,
what size socket is that nut? I need to do my brakes and want to do it right.
What is the proper reinstallation of that nut? Is it torque? Placement? What? I can read my book but, you know, this is easier and sometimes the book is different than what really works.
Click to view attachmentMy son and I, bent all the new lines.
Click to view attachmentPlumbing complete.
Stops Great.
Click to view attachmentPlumbing complete.
Stops Great.
Looks Factory; Great Job
Click to view attachmentBrake pedal support, on the power system the linkage changes the lenth of the push rod."shorter" Click to view attachment
Click to view attachmentthe newer one the bracket "attached to arm" is farther out, for the brake lights.
Click to view attachmentMy old one the brake light bracket is flush with arm.
Click to view attachmentthe newer one the bracket "attached to arm" is farther out, for the brake lights.
Click to view attachmentMy old one the brake light bracket is flush with arm.
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the pedal pictures. So it looks like the distance from the "brake pedal pivot" to the "push-rod hole" are the same distance on both pedal systems. It looks like the only difference is the brake light switch bracket and all I have to do is make sure the brake light switch conntacts correctly.
Thanks,
Vic
Thanks for the pedal pictures. So it looks like the distance from the "brake pedal pivot" to the "push-rod hole" are the same distance on both pedal systems. It looks like the only difference is the brake light switch bracket and all I have to do is make sure the brake light switch conntacts correctly.
Thanks,
Vic
Click to view attachment Fine69: Here is a better pic of the push rod, that goes to the brake pedal arm. Notice the boot damaged, I am looking for a replacement that we can buy for these things.
"I will be sending it soon"
"I will be sending it soon"
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